Discovering Howden Bush Scenic Reserve
Howden Bush Scenic Reserve protects a rare expanse of ancient forest in Endeavour Inlet, accessible via the Queen Charlotte Track (the start of Te Araroa in the South Island). The reserve stands out as the inlet's only substantial area of unlogged native bush, where centuries-old trees create a cathedral-like canopy. Walking through this section feels distinctly different from the regenerating forest found elsewhere along the track.
Towering Ancient Trees
The reserve stretches from behind Furneaux Lodge along the track towards The Pines, ascending the slopes of 823-metre Mount Furneaux. Towering kahikatea and beech trees dominate the canopy, some reaching heights that dwarf the surrounding vegetation. The forest floor remains relatively open beneath these giants, with filtered light creating shifting patterns throughout the day.
A short detour south of Furneaux Lodge leads to the Puhikereru Rimu, a massive tree estimated at over 1,000 years old. Its trunk measures several metres in diameter, and the surrounding platform allows close inspection of its deeply furrowed bark. The tree's age predates European arrival in New Zealand by centuries, making it one of the most significant individual specimens in the Marlborough Sounds.
Walking Through Living History
The Queen Charlotte Track passes directly through the reserve, making it accessible to anyone walking this section between Furneaux Lodge and The Pines. The track here is well-maintained and relatively flat, suitable for most fitness levels. Walking pace determines the experience—moving slowly allows time to observe the forest's details, from epiphytic ferns clinging to tree trunks to the bird calls echoing through the canopy.
Photography works well in the dappled light conditions, particularly in early morning or late afternoon when sun angles create dramatic contrasts. The side track to the Puhikereru Rimu adds approximately 20 minutes return to your walk and is clearly signposted from the main track.
The Howden Family Legacy
Captain Harry Howden gifted this land to New Zealand in 1961, ensuring its protection as a scenic reserve. His donation preserved what had survived the extensive logging that cleared most of Endeavour Inlet's original forest in the late 19th and early 20th centuries. The reserve's boundaries were established to protect the remaining old-growth forest and the watershed feeding into the inlet.
The ancient trees within the reserve represent a living connection to pre-European New Zealand. While surrounding areas were logged for timber to supply early settlements and shipbuilding, this pocket of forest remained intact, likely due to its steep terrain and distance from water access points used for log transport.
How to Get There
Water taxis and a mail boat from Picton run services to Furneaux Lodge and other locations around the sound. Furneaux Lodge is next to the reserve, and the trip takes approximately 45 minutes. Advance bookings, particularly during the Summer months, are recommended.
Day trip hiking options include Furneaux Lodge to Punga Cove, Resolution Cove, or Merito/Ship Cove, combined with a water taxi or mailboat service.
